Going to Venice? Think outside the box!

If you want to stay in Venice consider a hotel away from the hordes of people near St. Mark’s Square.

I brought my group of ladies to a small boutique hotel steps from the Rialto market and bridge.  This hotel, L’Orologio, which means clock in Italian, was full of charm and amenities.  The staff was very attentive and the breakfast each morning was very extensive in its offerings.  The cappuccino was perfect.  So much so that one morning I had two! The hotel faces a major canal and outside the front entrance one can easily cross the canal by gondola for 2 euros per person and explore the Cannagregio district of Venice!

So, to recap your hotel stay:

• ·       Stay at a hotel in the San Polo district of Venice. An excellent choice of hotels would be: L’Orogolio and Palazzo Giovanelli and Grand Canal

• ·       There is also another great hotel between the Rialto bridge and well behind St. Mark’s Square and it is called Ai Reali – a wonderful hotel as I have inspected it when on a previous visit to Venice.

• ·       If you want to stay in another district of Venice, an excellent choice would be the Ca’Segredo in the Cannagregio district.  This district has the one and only casino in Venice.

Rialto Market

Rialto Market

While in Venice I strongly suggest you visit the islands of Murano for the glass blowing and Burano for the lace making.

Glass blowing and lace making are both specialized techniques and to see these artists in action is astonishing.  It is well worth the visit.  Burano especially because if it very colorful homes.

• ·       Please note that you can get off the ferry just before Burano and step into another world when you visit the tiny island of Mazzorbo, which has a well-known vineyard and a Michelin starred restaurant called Venissa. 

• ·       Please note: When shopping on the island of Burano please be aware of knock-off products.  Shop in stores where you will be able to purchase the true product.  Example:  La Perla sells authentic lace products!

·       Other towns within easy reach of Venice are:  Padua and Treviso.

Colorful houses in Burano

Ristorante Venissa in Mazzorbo

Glass blowing in Murano

On our way to Siracusa!

As we left Agrigento and headed to our first wine tasting at Occhipinti the sun was not shining, in fact it was our first, and not our last, day of rain.  That did not dampen our spirits.  Arianna Occhipinti, the owner, has worked in the wine industry since the age of 16 and by age 22 started labeling her own wines. She is known for her SP68 red wine which is a blend of two varieties.  We had the pleasure to taste both her white and red wines.  You might want to try to buy some of her wines which are available in the states at select wine stores.. 

After our delightful tasting we headed east to Siracusa and our new resort hotel:  Grand Hotel Minareta for the next two nights.

We arrived and it was still raining but not enough to stop us from exploring this seaside resort.  Our view was overlooking the waters. Siracusa at night was splendid.  This resort offered us a rocky beach, a jacuzzi terrace, pool, a spa and beautiful gardens among the 77 rooms which offer terraces so one can watch the sunsets in the evenings.  You can venture into town or dine at the resort.   What more could one expect, but maybe some sunshine.

Siracusa has much to offer its tourists.  One can use this town to visit other nearby towns such as Noto and Raguso and Catania

Our first morning began with a tour of the archeological park. We waiting in the market area for the downpour to stop and when it did we walked the short distance to the park. Within the park is a Greek Theatre, a deep quarry called the Latomia del Pariadso and a huge cave called the Ear of Dionysius ( in Italian it is Orecchio de Dionisio).

There was more to see but we decided to head to Noto to explore this Baroque town and come back to Siracusa later in the afternoon to visit the cathedral.

The beautify in this town is in the golden colored stone buildings with wonderful facades and fancy balconies.  Here is where I took everyone for an arancini tasting and then on to Café Sicilia for the best gelato tasting ever.  We were delighted to meet Corrado Assenza the owner who has appeared on Chef’s table episode 2.  I encourage you to watch it!

Genova or Genoa

Since Gourmet Getaways' group was staying on the Italian Riviera and Genoa was only a little more than one hour away form our hotel (more on that later), I knew we had to go to Genoa to see what it was all about.  Much to my surprise we all fell in love with it.

It is the sixth largest city in Italy and it is overshadowed by Rome, Florence Milan and Venice.

Our guide met us at Piazza de Ferrari and off we went to experience the ancient narrow streets, the many piazzas both large and small, a historic café for a cappuccino break, a pesto cooking class demonstration and tasting.

The narrow streets were full of fresh produce, fish and ancient stores which is still very active today.

Remember it is one of the most beautiful UNESCO World Heritage cities.  The city is abundant with Renaissance architecture.  We strolled on Via Garibaldi and marveled at the structural design of these ancient palazzos, some of which are now banks.

Since I am a chocoholic I wanted to taste and purchase excellent chocolate and I did!  There is an excellent chocolate shop called:  P.Romanengo fu Stefano located on Via Roma 51.  It is one of the oldest confectioners in Genova.  It all began in 1780.  It uses only the best ingredients.  If you are in the area it is well worth a visit to this beautiful and delicious confectioner shop!

I would definitely go back to this city as it is too large to explore it in its entirety in one day.

My Favorite Little Village on the Italian Riviera

One of our day trips during our stay on the Italian Riviera was to a small fishing village called Camoglia.  As we strolled down to the village we were fascinated by the views and marveled at how crystal clear the water was.

During the Middle Ages this town was a prominent seaport. Now it thrives on tourism and is a great getaway for many Italians in this part of Italy.

The name Camogli refers to the wives (mogli) of the fishermen who watched over the town while their fishermen husbands were away at sea. The population now consists of about 6,000 people and is known for its colorful houses that line the beach.

  As we strolled along the walkway it was dotted with boutique shops and small restaurants. While visiting this little town it was imperative to stop and taste some of the focaccia which is abundant in this part of Italy.  It was beyond wonderful.  The focaccia was thin and the dough was light. It is brushed with olive oil before baked and topped with herbs, cheeses and other vegetables.

 As we strolled along the walkway it was dotted with boutique shops and small restaurants. While visiting this little town it was imperative to stop and taste some of the focaccia which is abundant in this part of Italy.  It was beyond wonderful.  The focaccia was thin and the dough was light. It is brushed with olive oil before baked and topped with herbs, cheeses and other vegetables.

Focaccia with mushrooms and potatoes topped with a green sauce.

Cheese stuffed focaccia.

Would I recommend my travelers to visit this village?  Definitely YES!

Would I visit here again?  Definitely yes!

Ribollita! My Favorite Tuscan Soup!

I have been to Tuscany many times and without fail I always order Ribollita soup when I am in a trattoria.  I will describe itas wholesome and delicious.

This past September while in Tuscany I ordered it two times and both were delicious and both were made with different ingredients.  Everyone as their own version of this basic soup.

Ribollita means reboiled.  It first begins as a Tuscan vegetable soup but as  the left overs are reboiled and semi stale bread is used as an added ingredient it becomes ribollita!

My favorite was in Radda in Chiant. (More about this town in another post).  My daughter and I stopped at this great little wine bar called “La Bottega di Giovannino”,, and of course I ordered the Ribollita with a glass of white crisp wine, Vernaccio di San Gimignano.   There we sat at the corner table and enjoyed the lunch and watched the world go by.  Who could ask for anything more?

So I am including my version of Ribollita recipe:

1 medium onion finely chopped

2 leeks finely sliced (only the white part)

2 gloves of garlic peeled and chopped

2 stalk of celery and don’t be shy about using the leaves

2 carrots finely sliced

1 can of peeled or diced tomatoes

2 medium potatoes – cut into small pieces

1 bunch of spinach

½ small savoy cabbage finely sliced

Thyme

3 cups of cooked beans or canned small red kidney beans

If you are using dried beans cook them ahead of time according to the package and reserve some of the liquid.

In a heavy soup pot heat the oil and then add the onions, leeks, garlic, celery, carrots and cook until the vegetables are soft.  Then add the tomatoes and continue to cook for about 10 more minutes.  At this time add the potatoes and 1 + cup of hot water. Add your salt and pepper to taste and cook for about 10 minutes covered.  By now the potatoes should be a bit soft.

If you are using the spinach and cabbage add them now along with the beans and thyme.  Stir and taste as you may need to add more salt and pepper and possibly a bit more water. 

Lower the heat and continue to cook for 30 minutes.  You may have to add additional water to the pot.

Note:  Italians use the black cabbage called Cavolo Nero but this is hard to find so you may want to use Kale or Swiss chard.  Let your imagination be your guide.

On the second day as this soup is now left over you will want to warm this up

Reheat the soup until hot then:

In another pot or soup terrine add slices (thinly sliced) of country style bread and put the sliced at the bottom of the pot.   Drizzle with a bit of olive oil.  Add some of the hot left over soup and then add the bread sliced and soup again.  Cover the pot with the remaining soup and set aside for 20 minutes until the bread has absorbed the soup.

When you serve this soup drizzle extra virgin olive oil on top and serve with a crisp white wine preferable from Tuscany.

Enjoy this hearty and healthy soup!

Our delicious appetizer.  We ordered for 2 people but really there is more than enough for 3!